With 2015 and the two big annual watch shows right around the corner, many brands have already taken to pre-releasing a model or two in their 2015 lineup to whet the appetite of watch enthusiasts. While most sneak peaks have been from Richemont brands attending the January SIHH show, I now have an first look at a spectacular new piece from Breguet which will be officially unveiled at Baselworld 2015 next March.
In the tradition of the collection, the new Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 puts on full dial-side display the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and other components of the caliber. This particular mode also has a retrograde seconds hand — a perfect complication to be showcased in the Tradition collection. The retrograde seconds arc intersects the offset hours and minutes display at 12 o’clock, its blue hand also nicely complementing the blued steel Breguet-style hour and minute hands. It has a 40mm white gold case (rose gold also to be offered) with fluted caseband typical of the Breguet style.
You can see here in greater detail the circular-brushed semi-circle which marks the passing seconds. You can also see the fine detail of the engine-turned hobnail pattern (done by hand) at the center o the primary dial, which is further decorated on the periphery. This type of finish is typical of many of Breguet’s pieces over the centuries. As well, you should note the beautiful texture of the rhodiumed bridges and baseplate which is achieved by peening (bead blasting):
Lower in the dial, we see a largely symmetrical look, with the Breguet pare-chute located at 4 o’clock on top of the escapement.
The pare-chute is a Breguet invention which protects the balance staff from shocks – it can be identified at a glance as the emblematic feature of the Tradition collection. The pare-chute was invented by Breguet in 1790 and reached its final form in 1806. It is the forbear of all the shock protection devices in use today, including the popular Incabloc System which didn’t arrive until the early 1930s.
The automatic mechanical Breguet Cal 505 SR1 (3 Hz / 50 hrs power reserve) also utilizes an in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets and a silicon Breguet overcoil balance spring.
